Truman Boot Co. Mohawk Upland Review

These Truman boots are like nothing I’ve ever seen before, but at nearly $500 are they worth it?  

These are the Snuff Rough Mohawk Upland boots from Truman Boot Co, and they’ll run you $480. After reviewing so many boots over the past 5 or 6 years, it takes a lot to surprise me. But these did. That crazy leather is from CF Stead in the UK, and it’s called Rough Mohawk. It’s technically a suede but looks like no suede I’ve ever seen! This leather looks more like roughout if it needed a haircut. But that wild texture was exactly what drew me to this boot.

Construction

The upland boot is built on Trumans 79 last which is in fact a vintage last they acquired from Musebeck Shoe Co. in Wisconsin. It’s a classic shape, with a rounded toe and proportions which act as a perfect vehicle for the unique leathers Truman is known for. 

The upper is stitched together with tan thread, and the Antique brass hardware is a combination of 5 eyelets followed by 5 speed hooks interestingly. This is much different than the typical 7 eyelet, 3 speed hook design found on most boots. And I really like the design of those speed hooks. They’re not just a bent over piece of flanged metal, these are cast as one solid piece. 

The boots are made with a 270degree flat welt which is a little lower profile and lacks the upturned lip of a split or storm welt. They’re still totally resoleable, and I like this feature since it doesn’t distract from the Wookie leather. Also, notice how cleanly Truman tapered the welt. Very nicely done! 

The sole is a Truman-branded Commando lugged sole with plenty of traction. Inside, the heel counter is leather, and the toe stiffener is cotton with a thermal-backed adhesive. I still prefer all leather interior components, but if you get your sizing right the toe stiffener shouldn’t be a problem and It’s a lot better than plastic. 

Beneath the leather midsole is a military spec fiberglass shank. There is a lot of debate about the merits of steel versus leather versus fiberglass shanks, but the folks at Truman told me that they went with fiberglass because it doesn’t hold heat or cold, has a superior flex memory, doesn’t cause issues at airport security, and in the ten years they’ve been using them, Truman hasn’t seen a broken one. Personally, I can’t tell the difference in feel between metal and fiberglass from the wearer’s perspective. 

Truman used to use an EVA foam to fill the void caused by the canvas rib but have since changed to cork filler. Both have their pros and cons, but I personally prefer cork or leather beneath my foot over foam. In my experience even the best foam compresses over time and the boots become very uncomfortable.

In Use

When these arrived at my house, I opened the box and got an entirely new reaction from my wife- “eww! What are those??” Admittedly, they look strange. I asked her to just touch it, but she shouted at me and ran into the other room. It gave me flashbacks of our first date.

Truman is known for their adventurous choices in leather, and to me this is their big selling point. They’ve gone through many changes over the years as a company, relocating, changing from Stitchdown to Goodyear welt construction, and their latest evolution: offering more Ready-Made options with MTO or ‘Made to Order’ being “Members Only”. Members of what exactly is not specified, but I think perhaps only people on Trumans email list will have the option for a custom MTO boot now.

I found the sizing to run a tad large and ordered ½ size down from my typical boot size. The result is a very comfortable boot which took very little time to break in. This leather isn’t overly thick or stiff however, so I didn’t expect too much discomfort at first.

The feel is very Red Wing-esque- substantial but not overly so, with plenty of support and structure without the ‘ski boot’ feel of the PNW boots I’m used to wearing. And while these could certainly be used for work, I think they excel as a casual boot. I bought these for their looks, and it doesn’t make a whole lot of sense to bang em’ up on the jobsite when I have dedicated work boots for that purpose.

I think the natural tendency is to expect Truman to be like the other bootmakers in the Pacific Northwest- making an overbuilt tank of a boot, fit to survive the apocalypse.

These are casual boots that you could wear for work, just like my Nicks are work boots you could wear casually.

I’ve had a few fun conversations while wearing these boots since they’re so different looking. One lady thought they were falling apart, or “deconstructed leather”, but was surprised when I told her they were basically shaggy suede.

Which brings me to the big question regarding Truman boots: why would you buy them? After all, Trumans aren’t cheap- starting at $400 with most in the $450 range, and my pair coming in at $480. For that money you have a ton of options from competition like Red Wing Heritage, Grant Stone, or one of the PNW brands for not much more money.

The Bottom Line

Truman is a great option if:

1. You’re looking for an American made casual boot which blends work and style.
2. You want a unique boot leather or color.
3. You want to support a small American business.

Truman boots seem to have attracted a loyal following, with their customers owning several pairs of their boots. It makes sense, given that their leathers are often limited editions and offer a chance to own something unique. Personally, I’d buy another pair in their 20 last if offered in a cool leather. I’m signed up for their email list and keeping my eyes open.

It seems to me that Truman is finding their footing as a young brand in a crowded marketplace and carving out their niche with bold leathers and colors. I’m looking forward to seeing how they evolve!

Brands Mentioned: Truman Boot Co.