Breaking-in boots can be uncomfortable or even painful at times, but the end result is a comfort and familiarity unlike anything else. So how do you get to that point where your boots feel like slippers? In this video I give you some of the tips I use to break-in my boots along with some specific strategies to help you with problem areas.
The Best Way To Break In New Boots
Wearing a properly broken in pair of boots is one of the most satisfying feelings ever, and attaining it is no easy task! However, just like getting in shape the best path is consistency and patience. Before we jump into the different methods on how to break in your boots it is important to know the mechanics of a boot. Most boots are meant to fit the bell curve of people- most human feet. Typically, they don’t take into consideration all of the unique issues that people may have with their feet: high arches or wide feet for example.
Brand new boots are stiff. The leather needs to flex to become softer, and it will flex in diverse ways according to your foot shape and how you walk. The two areas which flex most the toe and the ankle, with each step these spots are compressed and released. Consequently, these are also the places that soften the most over time and lead to a boot that feels like a slipper. Making sure the leather is conditioned in these two areas will help speed up the break in process.
Fit
However, the most essential part of breaking in boots and getting them feeling wonderfully comfortable is having the proper fit. You’ll never be able to break out or break in an ill-fitting pair of boots no matter what you do.
Though most purchasing is done online in the modern day, it can benefit you to visit a traditional shoe store to be measured with a Brannock device. This tool will provide you with length and width measurements of your feet so you can make educated guesses for online size guides. Often one foot will be a slightly smaller size than the other, so always make sure you size your boots to the bigger of the two.
Accelerate Break In
Congratulations! You’ve bought your dream boots in the correct size; you’re looking at them in your house and imagining all the cool stuff you’re going to do in them. But hold on boss! There is some work you need to do before you head out the door.
Find the thickest socks that you can wear comfortably in your new boots. We want to begin stretching the leather, and the best way to do that is to exaggerate the size of your foot by using a thick sock (or two). If you put them on and they’re a little bit tight, sometimes you can remove the insole to allow a little more room inside while they break in.
Now simply wear them around your house for a few hours. I know it seems like a long time, but you don’t want to be caught out on the job or around town with boots that are killing your feet! So just do some household stuff, don’t get them dirty, but walk around and feel how they work with your feet.
Be mindful of pinch points, hot spots, or rubbing. If there’s heel lift, or if your toes are jammed against the front, these are signs that you might have gotten the wrong size boot.
If that’s the case, stop, take them off put them back in the box to be exchanged for the correct size. Wearing them indoors ensures you’ll be able to return them without an issue if needed. When you decide that you’re ready to venture out with your new boots, bring your old pair with you. Toss them in the back of your car with an extra set of socks, you may be awfully glad that you did!
Pain at Top of Foot? Skip Some Eyelets
A high instep can result in pain at the top of your foot. This is one of my common problems, and I alleviate it by re-lacing the boots and skipping over the eyelets which are adjacent to the pressure point. This still allows you to lace your boots tightly, but without putting the pressure on top of your high instep.
Boot Too Narrow? Leather Softener
You may feel a little bit of pressure right behind your big toe or right behind your pinky toe. This typically means that you have a boot which is too narrow. This may not be a huge issue (if your foot isn’t overhanging the actual foot bed) because the last thing you want is to be standing on top of a welt all day!
I’ve had some success by using is leather softener made by a company called Tenderly. It’s a conditioner which will help soften the leather in that problem area. Apply it to wherever the tightness is, and over time it will help the leather relax a little.
It’s not a night and day difference- you’re not going to be able to put this stuff on and immediately have a floppy piece of leather, but it will help moisturize and moisture is what helps boots really break in a mold to your feet.
Nick’s Boots recommends a mixture of alcohol and water in a spray bottle, then spraying it on any tight areas to let the leather relax. Just be careful because alcohol can remove some dyes and colors.
Heel Slip? Heel Patch or Surgeons Knot
If you have a little bit of heel slippage (your heel moving up and down in the back of your boot) some companies like Beckett Simonon, put a little piece of suede or rough out leather inside the heel counter. Over time your heel is going to create its own little pocket back there, and with time in you shouldn’t have an issue.
With smooth leather lining you can use a little bit of sandpaper, like 320 grit, and scuff the leather up a little bit. This will give the surface enough texture that your sock wont slide so easily.
Another thing that you can do to prevent heel slippage is locking your heel down via the laces. This is why some hiking boots have those eyelets way far back by your heel! The concept is to pull your heel into the boot, but there are ways to do this with “normal” boots without those hooks.
Create a surgeon’s knot by winding the two laces together a couple of times right at your ankle. This will lock your heel down and not allow any expansion, because you’ve created a mechanical advantage.
Last Resort
This final method is not recommended unless you’ve exhausted all other possibilities. You can apply a little bit of heat, I don’t mean a heat gun or putting them next to a fire because leather is skin so you’re going to dry the hell out of it. A hairdryer is the hottest I’d suggest, just to soften the leather somewhat.
The heat, moisture, and pressure from normal wear is what breaks in a boot, so this will accelerate the process. Afterwards I would apply a little bit of leather conditioner because you just basically dried out that section of the leather.
Also be cautious because depending on what kind of leather it is it could become discolored, so I don’t suggest putting heat on your boots unless it’s a really drastic circumstance.
This is how I break in my boots, from my heavy-duty work boots to dress boots, and a combination of the above methods will ensure a pair of well broken in boots that fit like a second skin.
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