Carhartt has completely changed their denim line, and people are wondering why. An entirely new denim, fit, and color options mean that the new Carhartt jeans are a totally different animal, but are they better for your needs?
Old Carhartt Jeans
As an apprentice I wasn’t making much money and I would regularly get my workwear off eBay or Sierra Trading Post. One day I found a listing for five pairs of Carhartt jeans in my size -brand new- for about $20/pr. Come to find out they were part of some company uniform, and they had the employees’ name on a little waistband ID tag. I didn’t really care though since I always wore a belt, and those jeans lasted me for years and years, well into my career as an electrician.
I only had two issues with those jeans. First was their appearance- pure Mitt Romney jeans until I put them to work. On the jobsite nobody really cares about style, but these jeans weren’t winning any style points and were relegated to “work only” status.
My second issue had to do with the back pockets. They tended to rip at the outside corner, as I’d normally keep my lineman pliers and 5-in-1 screwdriver in them. Oddly enough it wasn’t the pocket itself, but the fabric that the pocket was sewn to which would rip. This would only get worse since, as a creature of habit, I’d keep using the same pocket to hold my tools. Eventually the tear would get so bad that I’d retire the jeans to yardwork duty.
New Carhartt Jeans
Well, Carhartt’s new denim is notable because it’s the first big refresh in a long time. Entirely new fabric, patterns, and washes to bring them into the modern era. Let’s go through these items one by one.
Construction
Fabric Weight
A brand new 13oz ring spun 100% cotton denim is used for the new jeans, and that weight puts them at the heavier end of the midweight spectrum, but not as heavy as the 15oz. jeans they replace. Carhartt claim that these new jeans are thinner yet stronger than their ancestors though, and at first those two qualities seem to be at odds with one another.
However, as we’ve discovered in my previous torture test video, fabric weight has little bearing on ultimate durability. More crucial factors are cotton fiber length, stitch quality, and overall design. In fact, the Carhartt B01’s significantly outperformed the other work pants in terms of sheer strength in that torture test, placing first in the leg pull, hammer-loop pull, and belt-loop pull tests.
Additionally, decent work jeans need to balance durability and ease of movement. Allowing you to be protected while crawling under a vehicle, climbing ladders, or navigating a dusty attic space. Too thin and the pants won’t survive long, too thick and they’ll pinch or be unnecessarily warm.
Back Pockets
The back pocket issue which plagued my old jeans (and evidently many other people, as evidenced by the reviews) was caused by bleach used in the old wash process. Bleach which never fully washed out and slowly deteriorated the cotton fibers over time resulting in those pocket corner tears. Along with changing the wash process to be less aggressive and not use bleach, Carhartt re-designed areas where the denim was so thickly layered that water could never reach it. This is especially noticeable in the back pockets and main seams as compared to the old models. The back pockets are still double lined at the bottom though, so your screwdriver won’t poke through the bottom. Or, if it does, it will take twice as long!
Seam Stitch
Speaking of seams, the classic Carhartt triple stitch is still present, but the inseam has been changed to a double stitch. At first, I thought this was a cost saving measure (more stitches, more strength, right?) but it’s actually a benefit to mobility. Let’s take my Origin jeans for example. These use a triple stitch on the inseam, and you can feel it especially where the knees bend. In the type of work that I do the inseam doesn’t see much abuse, and I’ll bet Carhartt saw this as a worthwhile tradeoff. It’s certainly a compromise that gives up some durability for ease of movement, but I can’t think of the last time I blew out an inseam stitch. I do wish Carhartt would include a crotch gusset though, as that would really take these to the next level.
5th Pocket Design
Something Carhartt doesn’t mention on the product page is the new fifth pocket design, which is vastly improved from the old models. The fifth pocket is usually quite useless on most jeans. A leftover from the days of pocket watches, this little pocket has become more of a traditional ornamentation than anything. Thankfully Carhartt has increased its size dramatically, making it a great spot to store your pocketknife or other small items.
Belt Loops
The belt loops have been significantly upgraded from their old design, now being wider and sewn beneath the waistband. Admittedly I never had a Carhartt belt loop fail on me, but this contemporary design is far superior. I like to hook my keys to my belt loop, so this is a fantastic upgrade.
Rivet Design
The smallest change (dimensionally) is the new rivet design. The old Carhartt rivets were good- having a rounded top, but the new ones are entirely flat. This means even less chance you’ll scratch up your truck when leaning against it to grab something out of the back.
Updated Fit
Carhartt claims they’ve redesigned the fit of their jeans with an updated top block, leg shape, and “U” shaped saddle for increased comfort. Comparing the new models to their older versions, it looks like Carhartt has modernized the fit with tweaks rather than drastic changes. The overall width of the legs has been slightly reduced, and the top block seems to be a little roomier. Fit is such a tricky subject since everybody is different, so what is ideal for one person will be uncomfortable for the next. Still, I think it’s safe to say they feel much more like non-workwear jeans in regard to fit. Although I still find their fit styles confusing (loose fit, traditional fit, etc).
Colors
Thankfully Carhartt has revisited their colors, because until very recently you could find yourself in full “dad jeans” territory. The new washes are light years ahead of their old ones, with nice variation, texture, and light distressing. Looks are subjective, but I think they’ve finally brought their denim into the modern day, swapping the 8-track for Spotify. These are jeans you can wear both to work and casually, and although looks are low on the priority list for work pants, it doesn’t hurt to work hard and look good doing it.
Final Thoughts
Pros
- Softer, stronger fabric
- Upgraded belt loops, fifth pocket, and rivets.
- Modern color and wash options
Cons
- Double inseam instead of triple trades durability for flexibility
- Fit descriptions are very confusing.
- No crotch gussets.
The Bottom Line
Carhartt does one thing better than anyone else in the workwear space, and that’s balance value with quality. Are these the best workwear jeans you can buy? No. If absolute quality is what you want irrespective of price, then boutique brands like Greasepoint Workwear, Ship John, or Red Clouds Collective are where you should look. However, these Carhartt jeans are typically less than $50/pair. That means you could buy eight pairs of Carhartt jeans for the price of one Greasepoint. Two entirely different customers admittedly, but when value is priority, I think it’s a no brainer.
Even among their peers, Carhartt offers a value proposition that’s hard to beat. As someone who spends most of his life on construction sites, there is a reason they continue to be the brand that’s best represented. However, with new competition nipping at their heels it will be interesting to see how Carhartt maintains their dominance in the workwear segment.
Richard Karg
The change of the leg pocket was dumb Changing it from right to left. And dould fabric on the chest is to much waist